Begin by carefully opening the box. Please be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself. For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4, 5, 6mm Allen wrenches.
If for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble your bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes to a bike shop for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.
Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.
Once you have the bike box opened:
- Remove the saddle and seatpost.
- Remove the small parts box.
- Remove the bike.
- Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.
Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.
Now that your bike is out of the box:
- Detach the front wheel by cutting all zip ties holding it on.
- Detach the handlebar by cutting all of the zip ties that may be holding parts together. Be very careful not to cut any of the bikes shifter or brake cables while doing so.
- Then remove all of the packing material from the frame.
Install seat post into frame:
- Loosen the seat clamp and insert the seatpost into the seat tube. If you have bike grease you can apply a small amount to the seatpost before inserting it. Make sure that you have inserted the post past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post near bottom).
- Finish by either clamping down the quick release lever or using a hex wrench to tighten (depending on which style you have). DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. QR Seatpost clamp should have some resistance when closing, but not so much that it takes a lot of force to get it to the closed position
- When the bike is fully assembled you will then be able to fine tune the saddle adjustment based on your height. Refer to the Saddle Position section on page 12 of the DB Owner's Manual for guidance.
Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that's your best bet.
It's now time to install your handlebar to the stem. Begin by making sure the cables are in the correct position - cables are not twisted or kinked and the shifter and brake lever on the right will control the rear of the bike while the shifter and brake lever on the left will control the front of the bike.
- Next remove the stem bolts and faceplate.
- Place the bar in the stem and loosely re-secure the faceplate to the stem. Be sure your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cable.
Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately (use an "X" pattern) to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side. The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. NOTE: stem bolts are typically tightened to 4nm.
Now that your handlebars and seatpost are securely fastened, it's time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of both sides of the front wheel axle.
Now install skewer through the axle of the front wheel.
- Remove the non-lever side of skewer, as well as one spring, and proceed to insert through the front wheel axle.
- Put the spring back on the skewer. Note the correct positioning of the springs on the skewer when mounting (smaller part of spring points in towards hub and spokes).
- Thread the skewer nut back on a few turns.
Mount the front wheel on the fork. Make sure that the fork is pointing in the correct direction (the brake should be at the front of the fork, not behind it):
- Insert wheel into front fork. Make sure wheel is centered in fork. Note that the quick release lever should be on the non-drive/left side (when sitting on the bike).
- Once the wheel is in the fork tighten the skewer nut until it touches the fork lightly. The quick release part of the skewer should be on the non-drive/left side (when sitting on the bike).
- Then start to close the skewer lever. The QR lever should close with some resistance, but not too much that is hard to close open.
- When closed, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags.
- Most levers are stamped with "close" to indicate quick release is closed.
Now it's time to adjust the front brakes.
- Disconnect the brake lever springs from the lever arms.
- Next, grasp brake pad and lever arm in one hand, and loosen brake pad bolt.
- Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the pad to come into contact with the tire.
- Check to make sure both pads are hitting squarely in center of the rim braking surface.
- Reconnect the brake lever springs to the brake lever arms.
Reconnect the front brake by squeezing both brake lever arms together with one hand. Then pull on the aluminum cable noodle in one hand while hooking the lower end of the noodle into the slotted link on the brank arm. If it is too difficult to connect the noodle you have to release a little cable tension by loosening the cable anchor bolt and giving the cable a little more slack. Make sure to re-tighten the anchor bolt.
To tighten the brake cable tension:
- loosen cable anchor bolt
- pull the cable to remove excess slack and retighten the cable anchor bolt.
- Trim cable and crimp cable cap. There should be 2-3 inches of cable left after trimming.
- Install cable end.
- Tuck cable away and crimp cable cap to avail the cable unravelling, neatly behind brake lever arm.
Do the same for the rear brake as you did for the front as the brake pads may need adjustments.
- Release the spring from brake lever arm.
- Next, grasp brake pade with one hand and loosen break pad bolt.
- Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the pad to come into contact with the tire. Check to make sure pad is hitting squarely in center of rim braking surface.
- Reconnect the lever spring prior to reconnecting the rear brake cable noodle.
To reconnect the rear brake pull on the aluminum cable noodle in one hand while hooking the lower end of the noodle into the slotted link on the brake arm.
If the front or rear brake pads are not hitting the braking surface of the rim evenly – one pad is hitting the rim braking surface before the other - use the cantilever spring tension screws to adjust. For example, If the left brake pad is hitting the rim brake - surface sooner than that of the brake pad on the right, give the spring tension adjustment screw on the right side lever a turn or two to increase spring tension.
If the cable tension needs to be increased for better braking, loosen cable anchor bolt. Remove excess cable slack and re-tighten cable anchor bolt.
Note: For wheel removal: the noodle may be unhooked from the arm link. This will allow the brake to open up wide enough to clear a wider width tire. First, pull the boot away from the end of the noodle. Then squeeze the brake arms together with one hand while unhooking the lower end of the noodle from the keyhole-shaped slot in the arm link
For pedal installation, your pedals will show what side they are meant to go on with an "L" or "R" on the end of the spindle or axle (depending on the pedal). We recommend applying a small amount of grease to each the threads of each pedals thread before installing.
Start by hand threading in the left, non-drive side (when seated on the bike) pedal. The left pedal will be indicated by an "L" on either the end of the spindle or on the axle (depending on the pedal). Tighten by turning your 15mm to the left (counter clockwise).
Take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm (right side when facing forward on bike). Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right (clockwise).
Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.
Now it is time to make sure the front and rear derailleurs are set properly. While pedaling bike, shift rear derailleur to lowest gear (largest cog) in the rear.
Make sure that low adjustment screw ("L" stamped on Derailleur) is set to ensure it hits the stop and the derailleur cannot shift the chain past the lowestr gear (largest cog) and into the spokes of the rear wheel.
- Incorrect Chain line
- Correct chain line
While pedaling the bike, shift the rear derailleur to the highest gear (smallest cog) in the rear.
Check the adjustment of the high limit screw ("H" stamped on derailleur) to ensure the derailleur cannot shift the chain past the high gear (smallest cog) and into the frame.
- Incorrect Chain line
- Correct chain line
For proper rear derailleur alignment refer to the manufacturer's instructions for your specific derailleur model. Form Shimano, the derailleur jockey wheel should line up directly below smallest cog. On SRAM, the jockey wheel should line up just to the right of the smallest cog.
Now it's time to make sure the rear derailleur will shift appropriately up and down the rear cog set. Proper shifting is all related to cable tension. Begin by pedaling bike with the chain in the highest gear (smallest cog). Each "click" of the shifter lever should correspond to the chain moving up the gears one cog at a time. To adjust the tension, use the adjusting barrel at the derailleur/or at the shifter to tune the shifting. If the chain shifts past the desired gear, the cable tension is too high. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise to ease cable tension. If chain is not shifting to desired gear, turn adjusting barrel counterclockwise to increase tension on cable until chain shifts to desired gear.
Additional Help Link: Parktool Rear Derailleur Adjustments
Next, adjust the front derailleur. Check to make sure front
- Set derailleur angle so outside plate lines up with large chain ring. Make sure that the chain is sitting on the smallest chainring (if there are only two) or in the middle chainring (if there are three).
- Check height of derailleur using guide sticker on derailleur. If there is not a guide sticker, the outside front derailleur plate should sit about 2mm above larger chain ring on crank.
Now it's time to set front derailleur adjustment screws. To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its lowest gear (largest) cog in the back. Make sure the front derailleur is set so that the chain is in the lowest gear (smallest cog) in the front.
- Check the distance of chain to inner plate of front derailleur
- Set front Low set screw so that inner plate is approx.. 1-2mm from chain. ("L" stamped on Derailleur)
Next, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its highest (smallest) cog in the back and the shift the front derailleur into the high gear (largest chainring).
- Check the distance of chain to outer plate of front derailleur
- Set the High limit screw ("H" stamped on Derailleur) so that the outer Front Derailleur plate is approximately 1-2mm from chain.
As a last step, shift through the rear gears starting out in the smaller chain ring on the cranks and then in the larger to make sure that the shifting runs smoothly.
Align your bars to the front wheel.
Tighten stem cap bolt.
While the handlebars are still aligned with the front wheel, tighten stem bolts.
Inflate your tires. Each tire will have a recommended air pressure (measured in PSI) on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.
- Take off valve cap
- Pump up tire to recommended tire pressure.
The final step is to go through the entire bike one more time to make sure that:
- every bolt is tight,
- your wheels are secured in place, so that your front and rear brakes are functioning properly
- the handle bars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them.
If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services. Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.
Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner's manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online atDiamondback's webpage