Begin by carefully opening the box. Be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself on them.
For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4,5,6mm allen keys; and a T-25 Torx wrench.
If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.
Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.
Once you have the bike box opened:
- Remove the saddle and seatpost.
- Remove the small parts box.
- Remove the bike.
Before proceeding, make sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.
Now that your bike is out of the box:
- Begin by detaching the wheel and removing all of the packing material from the frame
- Unpack handlebar by cutting all zipties/ removing any packaging that may be holding parts together.
Be very careful not to cut any of the bikes shifter or brake cables while doing so.
Install seat post into frame:
Loosen the seat clamp and insert the seatpost into the seat tube.
- If you have bike grease you can apply a small amount to the seat post before inserting it.
- Make sure that you have inserted the post past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post near bottom).
- Finish by either clamping down the quick release lever or using a hex wrench to tighten (depending on which style you have). QR seat post clamp should have some resistance when closing, but not so much that it takes a lot of force to get it to close position. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. NOTE: Seat clamp bolts are typically tightened to a MAX of 5nm and noted on the seat clamp.
- When the bike is fully assembled you will then be able to fine tune the saddle adjustment based on your height. Refer to the Saddle Position section on page 12 in the DB Owner's Manual for guidance.
Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that's your best bet.
It's now time to install your handlebar to the stem. Begin by making sure the cables are in the correct position – where cables are not twisted or kinked and the shifter and brake lever on the right will control the rear of the bike while the shifter and brake lever on the left will control the front of the bike.
- Next remove the stem bolts and faceplate.
- Place the bar in the stem and loosely re-secure the faceplate to the stem. Be sure that your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cable.
Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. Most bars will offer some guidance using painted marks on the bar.
When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately and equally (use an "x" pattern for four bolt systems) to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side.
The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN NOTE: stem bolts are typically tightened to 4nm.
Install the rear brake cable clamp.
Installation and Set-up of front (and rear) mechanical disk brakes:
- Gather Caliper Bolts and Washers and Brake Caliper from parts box
- Install Front Caliper
- Top bolt – start by getting bolt threading started by hand
- Bottom Bolt - start by getting bolt threading started by hand
- Begin to tighten Caliper bolts (alternating tightening a few turns each time between the top and bottom caliper bolt), but leave a little play in caliper - do not completely tighten top and bottom caliper bolt yet. Completion of front brake set up will happen after front wheel is installed.
Now it's time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of the axle. Please note that some hubs have little spacers which are pressed loosely onto the axle. Be sure not to throw these spacers away with the safety caps.
For some disc brakes you may need to install the disc rotors. NOTE: Try not to touch the flat side of the rotor (or minimally touch it) as that can cause squeaking once the brake is used. The disc and rotor bolts will be in the small parts box. Before attaching the front wheel, you'll want to secure the rotors to the wheels using the supplied bolts. Make sure to pay attention to the rotation direction of the rotor which will be marked on the disc with a directional arrow. NOTE: All disc bolts should be checked prior to front wheel installation to make sure they are tight to manufacturer’s specs.
Next is to mount the front wheel on the fork – make sure the fork is in the correct position before mounting the wheel (fork arch should be facing forward):
- Some tires will have a directional arrow (located on the side wall) indicating which way the tire should rotate. If your tire does please install the wheel so the tire will spin in the correct direction.
- Now install skewer through the axle of the front wheel. Loosen the non-lever side of skewer and proceed to insert thru front wheel axle. The quick release lever should be on the non-drive side of the bike (the left hand side when you’re sitting on the bike). Please note the correct positioning of the springs on the skewer when mounting (smaller part of spring points in towards hub and spokes) and make sure there is a spring on each side of the wheel. Place spring on skewer and then thread the skewer nut back on a few turns.
Install the front wheel so that the disc is on the same side as the caliper, being careful to make sure the disc sits in between caliper pads. NOTE: Try not to touch the flat side of the rotor (or minimally touch it) as that can cause squeaking once the brake is used. The tire should also be centered in fork.
- Quick Release Skewer- tighten the skewer nut until it touches the fork lightly.
- Then start to close the skewer lever.
- Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags. The QR lever should close with some resistance, but not too much that it is hard to close or open. Most levers are stamped with "close" to indicate quick release is closed.
Some bikes may arrive without a front brake cable installed. Use the following steps if this applies to your bike.
- Set adjusting barrel at the lever so slots line up with slot opening in lever.
- Pull the brake lever to the grip exposing the juncture where the cable enters the lever.
- Insert the round cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle.
- Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster.
- Turn the inner lock adjuster so slots no longer line up in order to keep cable from coming out of lever slot.
- Front brake cable routing should run thru cable guide on front of fork, then inside of left fork blade and to adjusting barrel of the front brake caliper.
Installation and set up of front brake:
- Pass the inner cable through the cable adjusting barrel of the front brake caliper. Loosen the anchor bolt. With the arm in the initial position, put the cable under the cable anchor bolt, and tighten the anchor bolt.
- While depressing the brake lever, set the calipers to the required position and then tighten the two caliper fixing bolts alternately by small amounts each time. Trim off excess cable leaving approximately 1.5” of cable.
- Install the cable end cap and crimp cable end cap to avoid the cable from fraying.
- Refer to the following manufacturers sites for specific on adjusting your model of mechanical Disc Caliper:
For pedal installation, your pedals will show what side they are meant to go on with an "L" or "R" on the end of the pedal spindle or axle (depending on the pedal). We recommend applying a small amount of grease to the threads of each pedals thread before installing.
Start by hand threading in the left (this should be indicated by an "L" on either the end of the pedal spindle or on the pedal axle), the non-drive side pedal, into the left/non-drive side crank arm. Tighten by turning your pedal wrench 15mm to the left (counter clockwise).
Take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm (right side when facing forward on bike). Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right (clockwise).
Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.
Now it is time to make sure the front and rear derailleurs are set properly. While pedaling the bike, shift the rear derailleur to lowest gear (largest cog) in the rear.
- Make sure that low adjustment screw ("L" stamped on Derailleur) is set so to ensure it hits the stop and the derailleur cannot shift past the lowest gear (largest cog) and into the spokes of the rear wheel.
- Correct Chain line
Now it is time to make sure the high limit screw is set so the chain does not fall between the highest gear and the frame. While pedaling the bike, shift rear derailleur to highest gear (smallest cog) in the rear.
- Check the adjustment of the high adjustment screw ("H" stamped on the rear derailleur) is set to ensure that the derailleur cannot shift the chain past the highest gear (smallest cog) and into the frame.
- Correct chain line
For proper rear derailleur alignment and adjustment, please refer to the manufacturer's instructions for your specific derailleur model. On Shimano rear derailleurs, the jockey wheel should line up directly below smallest cog. On SRAM rear deraillueurs, the jockey wheel should line up just to the right of the smallest cog.
Rear derailleur: Here.
OR utilize these links to manufacturers site for instructional PDFs and/or videos:
Now it's time to make sure the rear derailleur will shift appropriately up and down the rear cog set. Proper shifting is all related to cable tension. Begin by pedaling the bike with the chain in the highest gear (smallest cog). Each "click" of the rear-right shifter lever (when facing forward on the bike) should correspond to the chain moving up the gears one cog at a time. To adjust the cable's tension, use the adjusting barrel at the rear derailleur or at the rear shifter to tune the shifting. If the chain shifts past the desired gear, the cable tension is too high. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise to ease cable tension. If chain is not shifting to desired gear, turn adjusting barrel counterclockwise to increase tension on cable until chain shifts to desired gear.
Additional help link: Rear Derailleur Adjustments Here
Next, adjust the front derailleur. Check to make sure front derailleur height and alignment are correct.
- Set derailleur angle so outside plate lines up with large chain ring. Make sure that the chain is sitting on the smallest chainring (if there are only two) or the middle chainring (if there are three).
- Check height of derailleur using guide sticker on derailleur. If there is not a guide sticker, the outside front derailleur plate should sit about 2mm above larger chain ring on crank.
Now it's time to set front derailleur adjustment screws. To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the chain is in the lowest gear (largest cog) in the back. Make sure the front derailleur is set so that the chain is in the lowest gear (smallest chainring) in the front.
- Check the distance of chain to inner plate of front derailleur
- Set the front low set screw so that inner plate is approx. 1-2mm from chain. ("L" stamped on Derailleur)
Next, shift the rear derailleur so that the chain is in the highest gear (smallest cog) in the back and the shift the front derailleur into the high gear (largest chainring).
- Check the distance of chain to outer plate of front derailleur
- Set the high limit screw so that the outer front derailleur plate is approximately 1-2mm from chain. ("H" stamped on Derailleur)
Front derailleur adjustments: Here
As a last step, shift through the rear gears starting out in the smaller chainring on the cranks and then in the larger to make sure that the shifting runs smoothly.
Align your bars to the front wheel.
Tighten stem cap bolt.
While the handlebars are still aligned with the front wheel tighten the stem bolts. Most stems have a 4nm maximum torque setting.
Inflate your tires. Each tire will have a manufacturer's recommended air pressure (measured in PSI) on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.
Last step is to go through the entire bike one more time and make sure that:
- -every bolt on the bike is tight
- -your wheels are secured in place so that your front and rear brakes are functioning properly
- -the handle bars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them
- -that your suspension has been adjusted to the proper recommended settings.
If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services. Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.
Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage: here for Diamondback