Assemble Your Standard Build Bike

Congratulations on your new Standard Build bike!

The good news is this bike is already partially assembled. Just dial in a few details and double-check all parts and pieces to make sure this ride is safe. This guide will help assemble your standard build bicycle. These steps will apply to many 2016 and earlier bikes. 

For use of Standard Build: Mountain, Road, City, Youth, & Neighborhood Bikes

Assembly Time

  • Level 1 - "Never-Ever" Never assembled a bike and working with tools isn't your forte'
    Assembly Time 120 minutes 
  • Level 2 - "I'm Handy" Never assembled a bike yet you are pretty mechanically handy.
    Assembly Time 80-100 minutes
  • Level 3 - "DIY Bike Mechanic" Never fully assembled a bike but have done a little bike tuning
    Assembly Time 60-80 minutes
  • Level 4 - "Certified" You’re a skilled bicycle mechanic
    Time yourself, I bet you can assemble this bike in less than 30 minutes

If, for any reason, you are not comfortable assembling your bike, please take it to your local bike shop for assistance. Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Tools Needed

  1. 4, 5mm Hex Allen Keys* (comes with bicycle)
  2. 15mm Pedal Wrench or 6mm Allen * (comes with bicycle)
  3. Bike Grease* 
  4. Bicycle Tire Pump*
  5. #2 Phillips Head and Flathead Screwdriver *
  6. Box Cutter or Strong Scissors
  7. Needle Nose Pliers
  8. Cable Cutters

    * Required

1. Open Up Your Box

- Open box, be careful to keep the box intact and hold on the packing materials as you can use it for future shipping of your bike.

- Pull out saddle/seat post and bike frame, setting aside warranty guide and small parts box and remove all packaging material from the frame. Remove all packaging material from the frame and cut all zip ties

-  Do not cut any brake/shift cables 

2. Install Seat Post

-Loosen seat clamp

-Apply a small amount of bike grease to seat post and insert into the seat tube past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post bottom)

-Tighten the seat post by clamping down the quick release lever or using a hex wrench to tighten seat post collar to recommended Nm marked on most collars (between 5-8Nm); the quick release lever should have some resistance when closing, but not so much force that it’s difficult to close (DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN)

-Check seat post tightness by grasping the saddle and try to move it side to side; there should be no movement when tight

-When your bike is fully assembled you can fine-tune the saddle height and angle

-Never install your seat post higher than the minimum insert line marked on the seat post

3. Turn Fork to Forward Position (dropouts should face forward)

-The stem should line up with the front fork

4. Install Handle Bars

*Check handle bar tightness by sitting on bike and rotating grips firmly forward; you should not be able to twist bar forward

5. Attach Front Wheel

-Pull plastic protective caps out of hub in front wheel; pull black plastic brace from fork dropouts

-Insert front wheel into the fork dropouts so that the quick release lever is on the non-chain side of the bike 

*Hydraulic disc brakes have a red or black plastic tab between the brake pads; grasp end and remove. Do not pull brake levers when wheels are removed

-For bikes with nutted, bolt on front wheel: Loosen nuts on wheel so wheel can insert into fork dropouts; evenly tighten axle nuts to secure

6. Check Back Wheel

- Inspect back wheel to make sure it’s centered in frame; confirm its trueness by lifting bike and spinning wheel

-For bikes with nutted, bolt on rear wheel: Check to confirm bolts are tight

7. Check Brakes

For bikes with Caliper Brakes:

-(If brake is not attached) Unscrew bolt from front brake and affix to front fork centering front brake while tightening

For bikes with V-Brakes:

For bikes with Mechanical Disc Brakes:

-If not already attached, secure bolts that hold the disc to the front wheel hub and bolts that hold brake mechanism to the bike

-Insert front wheel into fork dropouts making sure the disc fits into the brake mechanism between enclosed brake pads

-Make sure wheel it is sitting squarely in the fork and frame

-(If not already attached) Attach the cable to the brake lever by inserting the cable end holder after the barrel adjuster and lock nut slots have been aligned with the cable end holder

-After cable is secured to the lever, rotate barrel adjuster and lock nut so the slots no longer line up

-(Once brake cable is installed) Make sure cable housing seats appropriately into the end of the barrel adjuster and check for any kinks or damage

-Slip exposed brake cable through the rotating rod located on the caliper body and seat the housing into the same stop; insert cable into spring and spring boot

-Slide the cable through the cable anchor and pull out any slack

-Secure cable in place by tightening bolts of the anchor assembly

-Cable tension is correct when brake lever stops mid-way through when squeezing the brake

-Make sure caliper and rotor disc bolts are secure; DO NOT TOUCH ROTORS (they’re sharp and oil from hands can affect brake performance)

For bikes with Hydraulic Disc Brakes:

(Caution: Do not squeeze hydraulic levers while wheels are out of the frame, if this happens you will have to gently pry the brake pads apart with a tire lever to not damage the pads)

-Attach caliper loosely and align with rotor by squeezing brakes; tighten while holding brakes; DO NOT TOUCH ROTORS (they’re sharp and oil from hands can affect brake performance)

-Make sure caliper and rotor disc bolts are secure

-Depress brake lever 10 times to check that everything is operating correctly

-Lift bike and spin wheel, listening to make sure brakes are not rubbing

-Check all connections making sure no fluids are leaking

-Make sure you can you comfortably reach and squeeze the brakes; if not, adjust your brake levers using your reach adjustment screw

For bikes with Coaster Brakes:

-Coaster brakes are operated by pedaling backwards

-Check to make sure coaster brakes will stop the bike by spinning the back wheel and applying downward pressure to the rear pedal; the more pressure you apply, the more braking force you should feel

8. Install Pedals

-Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you may cross thread the crank arm and cause damage

9. Check Rear Shifting

-Check to make sure the rear derailleur shifts smoothly up and down the rear cog set; proper shifting is all related to cable tension

http://bike.shimano.com

www.sram.com

10. Check Front Shifting

-Check to make sure front derailleur alignment is correct; the outside plate should line up with the large chain ring

If your bike is not shifting correctly, see directions below or visit your manufacturer’s website for specifics and troubleshooting:

http://bike.shimano.com

www.sram.com

11. Install Reflectors

-Attach white reflector to front bracket and red reflector to rear bracket using an 8mm wrench or Phillips Head Screwdriver

-Tighten and angle

12. Pump Up Tires

-Each tire will have a recommended range of PSI (pounds per square inch) on the sidewall (find your ideal pressure by starting at the midpoint of the tire’s pressure range, then factor in your weight and riding style [heavier riders can use more pressure])

Double check the functionality of your bike before going out on a ride. 

PRE-RIDE CHECK LIST

Click titles BELOW for trouble shooting VIDEOS

Check Rear Shifting - Make sure the rear derailleur shifts smoothly up and down the rear cog set by pedaling the bike and clicking up and down each gear

Check Front Shifting - Check to make sure the front derailleur shifts smoothly up and down the front chain rings

Check Tires - Give your tires a firm squeeze. They shouldn't have much squish

 Check Brakes Disc or Rim - Depress brake lever 5 times to check that brakes are making contact with the disc or wheel, brake lever stops mid-way, and spin your wheels to check that the brakes are not rubbing

 Check Quick Releases or Thru Axles - Make sure quick releases or thru axle levers are closed and that each and every bolt on your bike is tight and secure

Correct Saddle Height - Ensure saddle angle is level with the ground and near center on the rails; start saddle height 1 to 2 inches below the top of your hip

DO NOT RIDE IF ANY FLAWS OR DEFECTS ARE DETECTED!

For trouble shooting see other videos here or connect with us via live chat M-F 7am-5pm PST or email us here.

*See assembly guide enclosed in box for additional information.